Featherweight Belts

========================================

BELTS

========================================
From: gjones@ccnet.com (Gordon D. Jones)
Subject: Featherweight 221 Belts

Just a note about Featherweights and belts.  Some machines run faster than
others and this can be partly attributed to the belt.  The belt uses some
of the motor energy.  The trick is to minimize this energy.  Energy is used
bending the belt around the pulleys, especially the small diameter motor
pulley.  The tighter the belt tension, the more energy consumed.  Ok, so
just adjust the belt tension to be as loose as possible and not slip.
Slipping is not good!  Another consideration, is the belt itself.  The
original belts are black rubber, Singer part no. 194144 or 194144-001.  The
numbers are printed on the back side of the belt, but old belts will have
them worn off by the bobbin winder. These belts are OK but hard to find
anymore.  The replacement belt is Singer part no. 194144-007 or 194144-701.
These belts are also black rubber, but are heavier (thicker in cross
section) and are not as desirable because they consume more energy.  The
best belt, for two reasons, is the Bando 1712.  This is a plastic toothed
belt, tan or pinkish in color.  It is more flexible than the rubber belts
and also has a higher coefficient of friction, thus you can run it with
less tension and it won't slip.  I have found the Bando belt labeled 1712
and also a similar looking belt with the number 1712L 194144.  You will
need to go to a sewing machine repairman or Singer dealer to find belts.

Another benefit of the Bando belt - the bobbin winder will work better.
The bobbin winder runs off the back side of the motor belt and if you have
an old belt, chances are, it is hard and slick on the back side and does
turn the bobbin winder wheel without pushing down while winding a bobbin.

To adjust or replace the belt, loosen the motor screw just one turn or so,
don't remove it all the way, then the motor will slide up and down on it's
dovetail mount.  Sometimes you'll need to rock the motor back and forth, to
get it to slide up or down.  The screw is located just to the right of the
machine column looking from the front.  You'll need a fairly large
screwdriver, preferably, with a long blade because some gorilla has
probably tightened it last time.
----------------------------
From: KPQX73A@prodigy.com (MRS CORINNE L MILNER)
Subject: Belt Shopping

Last week I went shopping for belts.  One shop recommended the "701"
replacement part and another shop suggested the "Bando".  I bought
both in order to experiment with Gordy's advice.  What would we do
without Gordy?
----------------------------
From: KPQX73A@prodigy.com (MRS CORINNE L MILNER)
Subject: Replacement Belt

Ellen B.  -  The leather replacement belts that I have purchased for
my treadles have come equipped with what looks like a rather large
staple.  I use an awl to create a hole at the appropriate spot
through the strap, slip one end of the staple through the hole I made
and pinch it closed with small pliers.  It always takes a little
trial and error for me to get the tension just right.
----------------------------
From: DAVE ALLEN DALLEN@mr.oa.ithaca.edu
Subject: treadle machine belt

Hi, Fanatics!  For ELLEN B - you attach your belt for the treadle machine 
with a clip that looks rather like a huge metal staple, like from a staple gun.  
They are usually gold-colored, and come with the belt.  You poke them carefully in
to each side (end) of the belt, after it is in position, about 1/4" or so from
the end.  If the holes are too close to the end the belt may rip.  You adjust
belt length by trimming the belt and making a new hole.  In other words, you
can always shorten a belt but you can't lengthen it!  Once the "staple" is in
place, bend the ends over as you would if you were putting a staple into a
piece of paper by hand (with no stapler).  Sometimes it takes pliers to do
this.  Sometimes you need an awl or other "poker" to start the holes.  Lots of
luck!  Ruth Allen in Newfield, NY  dallen@oa.ithaca.edu
----------------------------
From: SegurLane@aol.com
Subject: tan-pinkish belt
 
With respect to the tan-pinkish belt... When I first got my FW I took it to
my repair man because the cord was frayed through and I wanted to make sure
it was in peak condition.  He suggested replacing the old black belt since it
had a flat spot which made it difficult to wind the bobbin correctly.  He
replaced with the tan one and it appears to work perfectly.
----------------------------
From: bklein@uslink.net
Subject: Belts
 
Sorry I missed the info on the tannish pink belt.  The featherweight I purchased
from the dealer in Brainerd, had the original belt replaced with one of these.
 
He apparently had robbed the origional from one of his bookends.  It works
fine, and since he is a Singer dealer, I have confidence that it will not hurt
the machine.  My replacement belt has little teeth on the under side.  This
looks un-authentic, but it works great...
----------------------------
From: Sherry Gardner 72733.516@compuserve.com
Subject: Different Colored Belt
 
To Flat5:  I recently bought a pre-war FW. Someone had replaced the belt
with one of those tan-pinkish-tooth belts, and it works fine. I'd never seen one
before, and was a little put off by its looks, but oh well.
Happy stitching!
Sherry Gardner in CO
----------------------------
From: Graham Forsdyke (100661.3256@compuserve.com)
Subject: Oily Belt Problems

To Betty W with oily belt problems
Take the belt off and soak it in water and detergent overnight. You might have
to repeat the process a couple of times. On no account use very hot water.
----------------------------